In this article, I am going to show you how I made this table saw fixture using my CNC.

I need to make a fixture to modify some Langstroth beehive frame components so they would fit into my Slovenian beehive.

In particular the two side components.

I need to convert the side component on the left, to the one on the right.

By using a fixture on a sliding table, I should be able to use my table saw to cut them quickly and safely.

I decided to use a dovetail jig system utilizing the MATCHFIT clamps by Microjig.

Shown here is an all in one kit that has all the hardware needed to get started. It even comes with a dovetail router bit.

You can purchase one here:

MATCHFIT Dovetail Clamp Pro

The MATCHFIT system utilizes the 10-32 hardware shown here. You can use 10-32 knobs and hardware from other sources as well.

Using my 3D printer I was able to create both 10-32 and 10-24 hardware.

While any 1/2” x 14degree dovetail will work, there are reasons why you might want to use the dovetail router bit sold by MicroJig.

First, the tips of the MicroJig router bit are slightly rounded. This adds a very small fillet to the bottom edge of the dovetail slot, making them slightly stronger.

In addition, the MicroJig router bit has a slightly rounded shoulder that creates a round over at the top of the dovetail slot. This makes them cleaner and thus, they require less cleanup.

The MicroJig Router bit also has a slight tilt, that produces a shearing action for a cleaner cut.

Here are a couple links to some dovetail router bits I have used.

MATCHFIT 14 degree 1/2” Dovetail Router Bit

BOSCH Generic 14 degree 1/2” Dovetail Router Bit

The stock needs to be at least 3/4" thick in order to work with the dovetail system.

I have 3 pieces of 14" x 14" x 3/4" melamine, so I will be using that. Here I am using CorelDraw. The red outline represents the stock.

I then add an outside square that is 1" larger on all sides.

This will allow me to insert a 1" spacer between my stock and the fences on my CNC.

I then add some two point lines 2" from the edges, and 2” on center. These will be where the dovetails are made.

Notice how they extend 1/2" beyond the 14” x 14” stock.

This is to keep the dovetail bit from plunging into the stock.

Once my drawing is complete, I export the drawing as an EPS file so that I can load it into VcarvePro.

I load the EPS file into Vcarve Pro.

Before milling the dovetail it is recommended that you first create a relief cut with a 1/4” end mill to save wear and tear on your dove tail bit.

I create two toolpaths. One for the right to left relief, and another for the bottom to top relieve. These will be done in multiple passes.

I then create two more toolpaths. One for the left to right dovetails, and another for the bottom to top dovetails. These will be done in a single path.

At the CNC, I add my 1" spacers.

I then add my 14" x 14" stock and clamp it in place at the corners.

Its important to only clamp at the corners so that your router bits, don’t hit the router bits.

I load a 1/4” spiral onto my CNC and reference the Z axis to the top of my stock and begin milling the relief cuts.

Right to Left…

Then, Bottom to Top.

Once the relief cuts have been made I change over to the dovetail bit.

I then cut the dovetail slots.

Right to Left…

Then, Bottom to Top.

I place the jig up against my blade to see where the miter slot falls.

In my case I had to remove some so that the miter slot did not fall into the dovetail slot. This is important because I will be attaching a guide to the sled that aligns with the slot.

I mark the center of the miter slot on the sled.

With the guide installed into the miter slot (raised using pennies) I drill a pilot and counter sink into the sled and guide.

I then attached the sled to the miter slot using some pan head screws.

I found that my guide had a little too much slop so I added some nylon #6 machine screws so I cold tighten things up.

I reattached the guide and moved the sled so that it was up against the blade.

I raised the saw blade and ran the sled through the blade so that I had a zero clearance cut.

Here I am using a couple CNC clamps to hold a small piece of stock in place so I can make a tapered cut.

Perfect.

Its placed flush with the edge of the sled and held in-place with some 3D printed dovetail hardware.

The stock is held in-place with these toggle clamps.

I then add one of the large dovetail clamps to act as a handle.

It worked like a dream. Safe and quick.

The kinds of things that you can attach to the sled are endless.

Here I am attaching a small fence that I made to act as a handle.

Here I am using a 1/4-20 T-bolt. While they are tight, the do fit. They can also be inserted at the corners, which is very handy.

Please note that not all T-bolts will fit. I purchased these from WoodCraft.

Note that T-Nuts will also work. I have both 10-32 and 1/4-20 Tnuts that work.