In this article I am going to show you how I cast these 72g pewter bullets using a Lee 358-105 SWC 2 cavity mold.
I will cast 130 bullets. This will give me enough to work out minimum and maximum loads and have some extra for fun.
I always cast extras. Just in case I need to reject a few later.
The Equipment
I will show you the equipment that I used to cast these bullets. There is a multitude of equipment and methods used to cast, but this is what I had available at the time.
Lee Production Pot IV
I will be using this small 10Lb bottom pour pot to cast my pewter bullets. I dedicate this pot to full time pewter use.
I purchased mine here:
This pot works well if I can keep the casting constant. If the tip cools down, it will clog. I then have to hit it with a small torch to melt the obstruction.
Note that the temperature swings can be massive depending on how much pewter is in the pot.
When using this pot with the built-in manual thermostat, I set it to about 4.5. That seems to work ok, if I can keep the casting constant.
Note that the temperature swings using the builtin thermostat can be massive depending on how much pewter is in the pot.
I have a thermocouple attached to the pour spout on the underside of the pot.
I can use the Universal PID to monitor the temperature when using the pots built-in themastat.
You can find a full write-up on building the Universal PID.
The Universal PID Controller can also take over the temperature control of the pot.
I simply plug the pot into the controller and set the temp to the desired temperature.
When using a PID, I run at about 600 degrees when casting pewter.
This pot does not have a support for the mold while casting. I added this platform that makes casting effortless.
It consists of a 1-1/2” tall piece of extruded aluminum with a 1/4” piece of steel on top.
This gives me a great support for the mold, and the pewter will not stick to the steel.
Lee 358-105 SWC Bullet Mold
The mold I will be using is this 358-105 SWC 2 cavity mold sold by Lee Precision.
I purchased mine here:
Lee 358-105 SWC 2 cavity Bullet Mold
and
Lee 358-105 SWC 6 cavity Bullet Mold
You can get these in both 2 cavity and 6 cavity versions.
Note that the 6 cavity version requires a set of handles shown here:
The 2 cavity version is the first bullet mold I ever purchased, and is probably the least expensive bullet mold you can get.
For a short time I used an old solder pot and the Lyman Dipper to cast bullets. This would not have been practical with a 6 cavity mold. It did work with this mold and I cast several hundred of these bullets before upgrading to a bottom pour pot.
I preheat my mold using the hot plate shown here.
For pewter, I like to keep the mold between 300 and 400 degrees. A setting of 2 works very well for this particular hotplate and environment.
I got mine here:
I also have a PID controller that I can use on the hot plate. If I am using the PID, I use a 1/2” thick piece of aluminum with a thermocouple installed.
Note that when using the PID, I set the hotplate thermostat to maximum.
Lee .358 Bullet Sizing Kit
Once the bullets have been cast, I size them for my Ruger GP100 357 magnum revolver. In this case I am using a .358 sizing die.
I purchased mine here:
To hold the sizing die kit, I use this very inexpensive single stage press.
I also use this press to de-prime my brass.
I purchased mine here:
Note that while this press can be used to load bullets, I don’t. I use the Lee turret press for that.
You can screw dies directly into the included breech lock bushing on the press, or purchase bushings for each sizing die. For instance I have 3 sizing dies. Each has a breech lock bushing. This allows me to quick change the dies when needed.
The Process
If you are new to casting I recommend using some sort of hand protection. This can be a pair of thin cotton gloves. I also recommend eye protection.
I have an overhead vent fan/hose that vents to the outside. I normally don’t turn it on unless I am fluxing or melting some unknown alloy.
Step 1: Pour
I fill the two cavities to overflowing.
Step 2: Wait
I wait until sprue frosts over.
Step 3: Knock Sprue Plate
I knock the sprue plate until it cuts the sprue off.
Step 4: Drop the Bullets
I open the mold and tap the main bolt to dislodge the bullets.
I continue the process until I have 130 bullets in my basket.
If you notice in my photos, I have a damp cloth off to the side. I use this to cool the mold down when needed.
With each pour the mold will get a little hotter. If I notice that it is taking too long for the sprue to frost over or the bullets are frosted, the mold is too hot and I will set it on the damp cloth for a few seconds after each pour until it cools down.
Sprues
Each time the sprue plate is separated from the mold it drops the sprues into my basket.
These will need to be added back to the pot. I tend to do this as I cast.
Notice how I am using a pair of needle nose pliers to grasp the sprues.
Important
The sprues will be hot, don’t touch freshly dropped bullets or sprues with your fingers.
Be very careful when dropping the sprues or any culled bullets back into the melting pot. This can cause the lead/pewter to splash. Splashed lead/pewter can get you a pretty bad burn if it touches your skin.
I use needle nose pliers to pick up the bullet and drop it down the side of the pot facing me. That way if it does splash it splashes away from me.
My Cast Bullets
The completed 130 bullets.
Weighing the Bullets
If I am working up a new load, I weigh each bullet and try to keep within a couple grains.
In this case I want my bullets weigh in between 71 and 73 grains.
If I am doing accuracy tests, I will try and get them even closer.
Sizing the Bullets
The next step is to size the bullets. This is especially important for pewter bullet casting as the bullets are much harder than lead alloy bullets.
These bullets will used to make .38 special bullets for my Ruger GP100 357 magnum revolver.
The sizer I am using is .358.
Conclusion
That’s pretty much how I cast these 358-105 SWC pewter bullets.
The next process is to powder coat the bullets.
Video of the process