In this article, I am going to show you how I made this very simple CNC plasma cutting fixture.

It started with these small 1” x 1-1/2” coupons. I needed to put five holes in each.

I had 24 of these in total that needed to have the holes added. That’s a total of 120 holes.

This is a perfect job For the plasma CNC, but how do we secure the pieces while we cut them?

The fixture has two movable platforms with a small lip that will support the stock.

The stock is placed between the two platforms

The base is the means by which the fixture is mounted to the CNC.

In this case it will be mounted on a CNC Construction Set plasma table.

The 3/8” holes near the edge are used to attach the base to the table slat standoffs.

The fixture bracket attaches to the base and performs the function of supporting the support brackets.

The fixture bracket is made from 2” x 2” x 1/8” steel angle 16” long.

The two 5/16” holes should be 8.625” apart to mate up with the center holes on the fixture base.

While the drawing does shown the holes as 5/16” in diameter, by making them 3/8” you will have more adjustability when squaring the fixture to the torch.

The support bracket, along with the support lip are what hold the stock in-place.

The support bracket is made from 2” x 2” x 1/8” steel angle 3” long.

The four holes are used to attach the support lip.

The cutout in the center is used to allow a clap for holding the support bracket against the fixture bracket.

The support lip is attached to the support bracket. It is what the stock will sit on while it is in the fixture.

The stock is a piece of 3"/4” xx 1-1/2” x 1/8” rectangle bar.

While you can build this fixture using the layouts shown in this article, help support this website by purchasing the drawing files.

These files will put you on the fast track to building this project.

Attach the lip to the bracket, as shown here.

You want the lip to stick out about 1/32”

Attach the fixture bracket to the fixture base.

Start by adding a 1/4” lock washer to each of the 1/4”-20 x 1” hex bolts.

Thread the bolts into the two threaded holes from the under side and tighten.

If you are using a 1/8” thick base be careful not to strip the threads.

Slip the bracket over the bolts and secure with washers and wingnuts.

Place the support brackets against the fixture bracket and secure with small clamps.

The left and support bracket should be flush with the left of the fixture bracket.

The location of the right hand support bracket will be determined by the stock you are trying to cut.

Remove the first seven slats and set them aside.

Slip two of the bushing over the fourth and fifth standoffs, as shown here.

Do it on both sides.

Set the fixture on the bushings and align the holes with the standoffs.

Insert a 1/4-20 x 3/4” hex bolt with washer into each hole and snug them up with your fingers.

Place the torch on the right side of the machine just in front of the fixture bracket.

Slightly loosen the right knob.

Move the Z axis down until the right side of the fixture bracket can be pressed up against the torch nozzle, as shown here.

Snug the right knob.

If you have an alignment camera connected to your torch, you can use it as a very easy way to align the fixture bracket.

This is the point you want to set your X zero and Y zero references.

Here I am using s simple alignment camera I setup to do just that.

You can also use the nozzle to set the references by touching off and adding the nozzle radius to the touch off point.

The cutouts in the support brackets will accommodate many types of clamps.

Small C clamps are the most secure, but they stickup and tend to get in the way.

This is a small clamp used to attach things to a table.

The clamps I am using are the weakest but provide the best access to your parts.

You can purchase these here:

Small Spring Clamps

It is possible to add additional support brackets to the fixture.

The lips have enough clearance to allow you to insert steel angle into the fixture.

Here I am inserting a piece of 1-1/2” x 1/8” steel angle into the fixture.

You should be able to fit up to a 1/4” thick piece of steel angle into the fixture.

Note that you can readjust the lip stick out as needed.

You an also grind the inside edge of the lips down a little to fit other thicknesses.

This is a simple set of holding arms I created to help secure the stock.

The arm extension is attached to the holding arm using a #6-32 x 1/2” machine screw. washers, and lock nut.

The holding arm is attached to the support bracket, by replacing the 10-32 x 1/2” machine screw with a 10-32 x 3/4” machine screw.

It is secured with a washer and lock nut

The holding arms can be used alone or with the arm extensions. IF you are using the holding arm only, you have to add a 6-32 screw and nut, otherwise it is optional.

Making the support bracket and testing the fixture.

Making the holding arms for the support bracket.