PID Controller Kit
This is the heart of the Universal PID Temperature Controller.
The kit consists of the following:
Inkbird PID Controller
40Amp SSR
SSR heatSink
Thermo Couple
This is the one I purchased:
Other PID controllers will certainly work, as I have used others with success. That said the pin-out on the PID will vary from manufacture to manufacture, but the pins should be marked as to what they are. I will go into enough detail that you should be able to substitute others.
I prefer the INKBIRD controller over the Mypin controller as it seems to handle the various thermocouples better than the Mypin. In addition, the auto-tune feature on my Mypin controllers does not work. Keep in mind that
In addition to the issues I have had with the The INKBIRD controller kit is a better deal and comes with a full 40 Amp SSR.
The cutouts and mounting holes in the recommended enclosure are the same for both units shown above.
Fuse Holder
This is a 6x30mm 15Amp fuse holder.
These are the ones I used:
Pack or 10, 15Amp Fuse Holders
You will also need fuses:
If you are going to be running this at the full 15 Amps, you will want to get the following fuses instead:
AC 10A Plug Adapter
I used a IEC 320 C14 panel mount plug adapter to connect my power cord.
These are good to a little over 10Amps. I have used them with 1400Watt toaster ovens without issues.
Get them here:
Note that this use the standard power cords you find in many electronic devices. if you don’t already have one, you can get one here:
This connector is rated at 10 Amps, if you are going to be be pushing this controller to 15Amps, I recommend using a hard wired power cord. Just cut the end of the above cord and strip the outer insulation to to revel 8” of wire.
You will also need a cord clamp like this one. The enclosure listed below includes an adapter plate to hold this clamp.
You can purchase these at your local box store. If you cant you can purchase some here:
Power Switch
This is a 20Amp 125V SPDT switch. You only need to use two of the terminals so a 15A-20A 125V SPST switch will work just as well.
I do recommend screw terminals on these.
If you do use another switch, it needs to fit a 1/2” Hole which has been cut into the recommended enclosure.
Thermocouple Jack
This jack provides a very easy way of plugging in various thermocouple temperature sensors.
I got mine here:
Note that this jock fits the cutout in the recommended enclosure.
Thermocouple Connectors
While some thermocouple sensors come with connectors, most dont.
Here is a set that I purchased that gets you 5 male and 5 female connectors:
125V 15Amp Receptacle
You will need a standard 125V 15Amp duplex receptacle like the one shown here.
I don’t recommend the tamper proof versions. You can pick these up at your local box store for a couple dollars.
IF you cant find them, I have used these:
Note that you can use any color you like as long as it is in the duplex form as the cutout for this type as been added to the recommended enclosure shown below.
Twist Wire Connectors
When you attach the SSR to the SSR heat sink, I recommend using some thermal paste. Just about any kind will do as the temperatures will not be that great if you keep the amperage to 10 Amps or under. If you are going to be upgrading to a full 15 Amp unit, add the thermal paste.
Here is some that I have used:
Enclosure
While you may use any enclosure you like, I have designed and laser cut this one.
You can purchase the Universal PID Enclosure Kit here:
Note that the hardware for this kit is not included. It is part of the hardware kit shown below.
If you want to make your own enclosure you can purchase a set of drawing files here:
Here is a video of me milling the panels using the above drawing files.
Note that I have only tested the Mypin and Inkbird PID controllers with this enclosure.
Hardware
You will need the following hardware to complete this project.
4, #6-32 x 3” Machine Screws
4, #6-32 Acorn Nuts
8, #6 Flat Washers
7, #6-32 x 1/2” Machine Screws
7, #6-32 Hex Nuts
4, #6-32 x 1/4” Machine Screws
This hardware can be purchased at most hardware stores. If you cant find it I am offering a hardware package here:
Universal PID Hardware Package
Wire
You can use as low as 16 gauge wire for this project as long as you keep your working load to 10 Amps or under.
I recommend 14 gauge wire for this project as it will easily handle 15 Amps.
Here is some of the wire I have used on projects like this:
Wire Connectors
Rubber Feet
These are some rubber feet that I used on my controllers. I got them here:
Conclusion
Please note that the product links listed above may change from time to time. If one of the links fails, or the product is no longer listed, drop me a line and I will update the links.